In very simple terms, there are 3 general plans employed. You need to be agile enough to hop between strategies instantly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you are able to achieve, to block in your opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most suitable strategy at the begining of the game. You can assemble the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your 2-point and then move it into your home board as the game advances.
The Blitz
This involves closing your home board as fast as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early 2 and moves one checker from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a five-five, you can play six/one 6/1 8/3 eight/three. Your opposer is then in serious calamity since they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have two or more anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor is a position consisting of at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It must be employed when you are significantly behind as this strategy greatly improves your circumstances. The strongest areas for anchor spots are close to your competitor’s lower points and also on adjacent points or with one point in between. Timing is integral for an effective backgame: at the end of the day, there is no reason having two nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then required to break up this right away, while your opponent is moving their pieces home, considering that you don’t have other extra checkers to move! In this case, it is more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position up until your challenger provides you an opportunity to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to attempt and get your competitor to hit them in this case!
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